Hiking Weekend in Snowdonia: The AAA Leader’s Story
Day One - A very warm welcome
Full of anticipation for the long weekend ahead.
Pulling into the car park at The Snowdon Ranger Hostel, I was full of anticipation for the long weekend ahead. I’d checked my maps, planned routes, and, of course, all my equipment. The only thing I wasn’t able to do anything about was the weather, and no matter how many times I looked at MWIS (Mountain Weather Information Service), it didn’t get any better – the beautiful Spring weather of the previous week was about to take a turn for the worse.
But hey, ho. Knowing that Misha's team included other leaders with excellent local knowledge and vast experience in hiking leadership, I was confident that we would come up with some great hikes to interest and challenge our guests, and so it proved.
Anyway, that was to come later.
A warm welcome or a bracing dip in Llyn Cwellyn?
Firstly, I took a short walk along the banks of Llyn Cwellyn, thinking I was maybe a bit rash to encourage everyone to bring their swimming stuff for a bracing dip before heading across the road.
Then I entered the hostel and received the traditional warm welcome from Misha and Tatiana. They were already hard at work in the kitchen preparing the signature AAA food, which was so amazing and had been on my mind for the past two-hour drive.
The atmosphere was as warm as the cooking smells wafting from the kitchen. Guests greeted old friends, made new acquaintances, and began discussing their plans and weekend expectations while reminiscing about past AAA Hiking trips.
Misha's world-famous walnut cake!
After a light meal of one of Tatiana's excellent soups (how does she do it?), loads of bread, hummus, cold meats, cheeses, and Misha's world-famous walnut cake (did I say 'light'?), I sat down with the other hike leaders to plot and scheme about the next day…
My hike was to be moderate-grade. Three other hike leaders were at the event, so we were able to offer ample choices, including Energetic and Challenging hike options.
I would say my hike, given the weather, ended up on the harder side of moderate.
Day Two - Would the Welsh rain dampen our spirits?
Train or not to train?
After a hearty breakfast that included delicious porridge, a full English breakfast (with vegetarian and vegan options available), and plenty of coffee, seven of us set off for the charming little town of Beddgelert.
We occasionally looked up at the Welsh rain falling from the sky during the morning. I suspect the car park was almost empty due to the weather, which was a relief for us.
Our first task was to check the steam railway timetable at the nearby station to see if we could catch a train back to the station next to the hostel. The information on the board was somewhat tricky to decipher, but we figured out that the last train was at 14:45.
Considering our planned hike of 11.5 km with a 550-meter ascent, we knew we would have plenty of time to complete it.
The mystery of the twelve backpacks neatly lined up.
We then set off through the town, with the weather now clearing up, heading Eastwards along the Cambrian Way, following the river, and walking along beautiful paths and quiet roadways on a flat trajectory.
After 45 minutes or so of passing the copper mine, we came to the shores of Lake Llyn Dinas, where we stumbled across a mystery. Twelve backpacks were neatly arranged on the lakeshore, but there was no sign of any hikers…..?
I left my group of hikers to puzzle over the source of this while I checked my map and confirmed our path, which was nice and clear and headed steeply up the grassy hillside.
We kept heading up and up. Stopping at one of the path's turns to regroup, we took in the fabulous views over the lake and resolved the mystery of the backpacks, whose owners were seen returning from a series of boat sheds further along the shore.
Traversing a lunar-like landscape
The climb was starting to take its toll on a few group members. After all, we were on a moderate hike and here to enjoy ourselves. So, we slowed as we traversed the lunar-like landscape toward the highest point of our hike before beginning our descent toward Nantmor.
At this point, discussions often revolve around whether people find the uphill or downhill segments more challenging. Considering we were now navigating a steep decline over slippery stones, I agreed that the downhill part could be more brutal!
When we reached our lunch spot—picnic tables under trees at the foot of the hill—the weather decided it was time to unleash some rain, which only let up as we began walking again.
The lunch break allowed me to assess our progress and reflect on the hike's impact on the group members.
Change of plans
It was clear that the second part would be a significant challenge for some people in our group. The route would have involved a similar climb to the pre-lunch climb that some had found challenging.
So, an alternative was identified and presented to the group. The new route was a path along the river back into Beddgelert. With everyone in agreement, we set off on what looked like a relatively flat walk on the map.
In the event, it was a twisty and rocky set of little climbs and descents, overlooking the torrent of the river below, in full flood from the past few days of rain.
I was grateful to see that all the hikers were coping with the challenging terrain and enjoying it. After nearly an hour, the path flattened out, still following the torrential river, past the legendary grave of Gelert, and back into the centre of Beddgelert.
Although we were in time for the train, we all decided that spending some time wandering around the outdoor shop, ice cream parlour, and coffee shop before heading back to the hostel for some AAA scones, jam, and cream was, in fact, the winning combination.
If Michelin stars were awarded to hiking groups, then AAA would no doubt be in line for some.
Dinner was, as usual, superb. Until you've had an AAA Hiking dinner, you won't get this, but the food quality is first class, and if Michelin stars were awarded to hiking groups, then AAA would no doubt be in line for some.
Accompanied by a convivial atmosphere, it's worth coming on these trips just for the meals!
As a leader, I also deliberated over maps and discussed the latest weather reports with the other leaders. The weather was about to improve, so various hikes that were not good options on the first day were now on the table, including various routes up Yr Wyddfa (aka Snowdon).
Having summited Yr Wyddfa twice in 2024 and over 20 times in recent years, I was only too happy to pick up the only hike not going up to the summit, so I was to lead a 'moderate' hike again, this time of 16km and 700 metres of ascent.
I did some route confirmation and checking, ensuring I had everything on paper (twice) and on my phone. Although the route was pretty easy, as leaders, we never assume that things will go exactly as planned—the day before was an enjoyable example of that—but that's not always the case, so we try to be prepared for all eventualities. This includes potential hazard points, alternative routes back, potential lunch stops, and escape routes.
Feeling pleasantly full and with my route planned for the next day, I had an early night with my Kindle and earplugs ready.
Day Three - All change on the weather front.
Llanberis for lunch
After another hearty breakfast the next day, I moved off with my group straight from the hostel, letting the other groups head off first in case we needed to pick up any stragglers from them, as we were all using the same Ranger path for the first hour or so.
We climbed steadily in the glorious sunshine until we reached the saddle leading to a long, gentle slope down into Llanberis. It was a pleasant change to have a well-kept gravel path underfoot rather than the slippery stones that had made our previous day's hiking so difficult.
Taking our time and admiring the fantastic scenery, we crossed the pass and made our way down to Llanberis for lunch at the tables outside the Mountain Railway station. Some of the group checked out the castle and lake before heading back over the pass to the hostel.
A refreshing post-hike dip.
We could never have planned it this way, but we managed to link up with two other groups as they returned from their summit routes. As hike leaders, we all carry VHF radios to contact each other in case of emergencies, but getting the timing aligned to meet on the hill rarely works.
On arrival back at base, we were all hot from the day's exertions, and a dozen or so of us had an extremely refreshing dip in the lake across the road from the hostel. It was an exhilarating end to a lovely, satisfying day's hiking.
Potential hiking area for a future AAA trip
Dinner was again superb, involving completely different dishes.
The hike leaders discussed the final day's hiking, and a route starting from Betws Y Coed was identified as a potential favourite.
Having sustained a foot injury on the final approach, I declared myself unfit for duty. On the final morning, after helping with a thorough hostel cleaning, I had to leave the other hike leaders to take care of the group while I made my way home.
Well, not quite. I decided to check out a potential hiking area for a future AAA trip. It's a beautiful World Heritage site on the edge of the Berwyn mountains, with views that take your breath away.
Want to find out more?
Then come on an AAA trip and see for yourself.
Happy hiking!
Timbo
