Excited to leave London - I crave the need for space, vast skies, long paths, and the company of strangers
By Emma Woodcock
Quite often, I crave space, wide skies, long paths, and the company of strangers who might become friends. That led me to Dartmoor over the May bank holiday with AAA: a train, a backpack, and a quiet hope for something grounding.
I was excited to leave London, but anxious about spending a weekend with a new group of people I didn’t know. I’ve been coming on AAA hikes for over a decade, so I knew I was in safe hands with Misha and Tatiana, who run the trips, and their co-hiker Mike, who was leading that weekend.
As soon as the train began its journey, the landscape started to change, and I gradually relaxed. Passing through Devon’s countryside felt alive with memory (my parents had lived here for a while). The rolling patchwork of green and yellow farmer fields, stone-walled boundaries, and grazing cattle created huge, soothing landscapes, a spa for the eyes. Life felt simpler.
The hostel was a short walk from Okehampton station, and I used the time to ground myself. Hedgerows hummed with birdsong, blooming hawthorn and elderflower lined the quiet lanes. I felt my anxieties ebb away, replaced by excitement and relief. I escaped the FOMO and anonymity of city life.
Misha greeted me with a bear hug and offered a huge homemade cake and tea, which was the perfect welcome to start the weekend. The YHA sat nestled with views across fields, backed by pretty woodland. I met my roommates for the weekend and immediately felt a sense of ‘field trip’ camaraderie. I relished the feeling that we would become a little community for the next few days.
After an evening briefing and meeting the rest of the hikers, it was early to bed. (Pro tip: always bring an eye mask and earplugs when away.)
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we left the hostel at 9 a.m. for our first hike of the weekend. We headed south into Dartmoor to Belstone Tor, Oke Tor, and East Mill Tor.
Dartmoor is located in South Devon and covers around 358 square miles. It was designated a national park in 1951. Elevations range from 200m to just over 600m. The landscape is dominated by granite moorland, sculpted over 280 million years ago during the Carboniferous period. These granite intrusions form the iconic tors that crown many of the hills, often steeped in myth.
Despite being wild and seemingly remote, Dartmoor is crisscrossed with rivers, bogs, wooded valleys, and prehistoric relics. It was recently given back its ‘wild camping’ status, so it’s common to see young cadets practising wild skills and DoE participants camping out. Mike was well-versed in this landscape, which you knew you were in safe hands, whatever the weather.
We hiked at a steady pace. Mist rolled in and out of the tors, weaving with patches of sunshine. We found ourselves walking through many passing clouds, a light dusting of rain falling over us. Good waterproofs, warm layers, and sturdy boots are essential for this landscape.
We passed the remains of Bronze Age villages, tin mines, and stone circles. Dartmoor is home to over 70 known stone circles, making it one of the richest prehistoric landscapes in the UK. We stood by the Nine Maidens Stone Circle, around 4,000 years old. Legend says the Nine Maidens were turned to stone as punishment for dancing on the Sabbath.
We ate our packed lunch sheltered behind some large rocks, popular with local sheep and horses to. Everyone kept a great pace as we continued. I love how walking together fosters connection with each footstep and eases conversation; silence comes and goes without pressure.
At around 3 p.m., 19km, 740m ascent later, we walked back into the hostel, greeted by hot tea, warm scones, and the promise of a hot shower. My thighs and feet were grateful for the rest; my body would thank me later.
Evenings were fun and social. A small group walked into the local pub, where we played games, drank local ales, and flirted with the locals. Later, I lit a log fire at the hostel, providing warmth and comfort as we shared stories.
On Day 2, we split into vehicles and headed south across Dartmoor, around a 1-hour drive. The landscape is so vast and varied, it was perfect to see a different side of Dartmoor, lush, green hills. It was a very well throughout route, covering over 14km with 500m of total ascent, reaching several tors including Gutter Tor and Down Tor, and suited for all abilities.
As the group grew more comfortable, conversation flowed, laughter bubbled up, and stories were shared. We were fortunate to see plenty of Dartmoor ponies, an ancient breed of small wild ponies that have roamed the moor for thousands of years. Mike shared his knowledge of the landscape, the ponies are believed to descend from ancient Celtic ponies and are deeply entwined with local culture and folklore, symbols of freedom, resilience, and the wild spirit of Dartmoor. We shared folklore tales, the Beast of Dartmoor is said to be a large, mysterious, and terrifying creature that prowls the moorlands at night.
We stepped stone by stone over the source of the River Plym, which flows southeast through the beautiful Plym Valley, downstream to Plympton, and eventually reaches the city of Plymouth on the coast, flowing into Plymouth Sound and out to the English Channel.
We continued through oak forests. I really love this time of year, May. The landscapes feel so alive, filled with newborn lambs, foals, fledglings, and fresh new shoots. We passed Bronze Age cairns, stone rows, and tin mines.
We stopped for lunch by an empty bordered house on Dartmoor, flanked by two lone trees and surrounded by a stone wall, abandoned. As a Location Manager scouting for film locations, I recognised its beauty and potential for a location. Dartmoor has inspired many artists and films, including The Hound of the Baskervilles (Sherlock Holmes) and War Horse, both of which used much of Dartmoor for their scenes.
The weather was less kind this day, but as the rain clouds moved on, the wind quickly dried us.
We paused at the famous Clapper Bridge, a popular spot for photos (and we laughed as we staggered out of the bus as our legs were nearly seized from the post walk rest) to snap some photos. This ancient crossing, made of massive granite slabs laid atop stone piers, was built to support the many pack horses that would have been laden down with tin when working the mines.
It was then back to the hostel safely (there is a famous and eerie Dartmoor legend about Hairy Hands, invisible, powerful hands that seize control of the steering wheels and handlebars of vehicles on a particular stretch of the B3212 road near Postbridge) for a home-cooked dinner and games by the fire.
Monday (Bank Holiday) was our packing-up day. After making the hostel respectable and tidy, we were led on a walk around Whiddon Deer Park, a drive towards London in the Teign Valley, on the opposite side of the valley to Castle Drogo. It is a magical place, with bluebells, ancient trees, and a great sculpture by Peter Randall Page. From here, we exchanged our thanks and goodbyes and wished everyone well on their journeys home.
There’s something deeply nourishing about stepping away from the noise and demands of everyday life to immerse yourself in the outdoors. Having all the logistics taken care of for you on the trip, the food, and led hikes allows you to step back, relax and enjoy living in a pop-up community for a weekend. The shared experience, the quiet camaraderie that grows between strangers walking side by side, creates a sense of belonging and makes these weekends special.
You get to explore areas of the UK and Europe you may have never experienced before, as hiking isn’t just a physical journey. However, my thighs, butt, and calves were extremely happy to get some toning. Hiking can push you to achieve beyond what you deem possible alone. Time outdoors with others leaves you feeling energised and refreshed. At peace, I have come away from weekends like this having formed many lasting friendships and look forward to many future adventures with AAA.
