Coastal hiking, swimming and exploring, Spanish style
By Duncan Jones
Costa Brava? Isn’t that where all the Brits and Germans go to sunbathe, not somewhere with a hiking scene?! This was my first reaction when I saw a new AAA trip advertised.
But then I thought, ‘Every other AAA trip I’ve been on has been excellent’, so I resolved to test my prejudice, and signed up.
Pre-trip
As a lover of all things Spanish, I took a flight a few days before the trip started and explored Girona. I was pleasantly surprised – it’s not an overly touristy city and is easy to wander around.
Day 1 - Arrival and Welcome Dinner
After leaving Girona by bus a couple of days later, meeting up with the trip group was easy. AAA offered an airport pick up for everyone on the recommended flights, and they were also happy for anyone who arrived early, like me, to make their own way to the hotel in Calella de Palafrugell.
And what a hotel it was! AAA are famed for convivial rustic atmospheres and home-cooking in youth hostel trips in the UK, but their European adventures are something different.
Lovely big rooms with stunning views over the Mediterranean greeted us, along with a large swimming pool, jacuzzi, bar, restaurant and that always-a-winner-on-a-group-trip pool table. Oh, and the food we enjoyed on our first evening was quite something – varied, tasty and abundant pretty much sums it up.
Day 2 - 15km hike to Cala en Palamos and back
After a huge breakfast and a typically thorough explanation from Misha of what the day held in store, we wandered off via the local supermarket for a stunning cliff walk along the glistening Mediterranean Sea.
The first 7km took us to the beautiful Castell Beach, where we relaxed for a few hours, played games, swam in the sea and over-indulged in Catalan ice-cream. We took a different route back to Calella de Palafrugell, where another dip in the sea was followed by a beer on the hotel balcony and a bit of glamming up for a night out in the town.
The restaurant AAA had reserved was excellent: on the seafront, with a broad range of food options, catering for vegans and vegetarians, as well as the great Mediterranean fish options that you’d expect from the location.
After dinner, a couple of drinks and a game of pool back at the hotel, we turned in, full of fresh air, fish and Spanish sun.
Day 3 - 9km hike from Tamariu to Platja d'Aiguablava and back
After another hearty breakfast and some surreptitious gathering of provisions for lunch, we were transported to the coastal town of Tamariu for another 9km hike along the rugged coastline, again punctuated with a several hours relaxing on the beach at Platja d'Aiguablava.
We looped back to Tamariu for some light beverages overlooking the sea, before heading back for another delicious dinner out in Calella de Palafrugell, followed by a nightcap on one of the many street terraces.
Day 4 - Tossa de Mar
Arriving in Tossa de Mar, it quickly became apparent why the town is considered a bit of a jewel in the Costa Brava crown, with its golden beaches, art galleries, boutique-style cafés and rich history.
In a change of rhythm, we opted for a smooth ride along the coast on a glass-bottomed boat, giving us an excellent window on the diverse marine life below, and the opportunity to kick back and rest our slightly stiff limbs from the previous days’ exertions.
Back on dry land, a relaxing wander around the medieval castle overlooking turquoise waters was followed by a meander around the cobbled streets, with stops for coffee and a light ale, before heading back to Calella de Palafrugell for another fun night out with great food.
Day 5 - Exploring Pals
The final day involved another real treat with a visit to the small village of Pals. Nestled a few miles back from the coast, the village is a beautifully preserved medieval town with more cobbled streets, stone archways and panoramic views of rice fields and the Mediterranean. Its Gothic architecture, quaint shops and history made it a perfect relaxing and cultural way of sending us off to the airport and back to reality.
The Verdict
The trip was immaculately designed and delivered, with a good range of hiking, beach and cultural exploring. At every step of the way, I felt looked after, and had freedom to do what I wanted outside of the group activities, something that is important to me on a trip like this.
The other 11 people on the trip were great, all broadly interested in getting the same things out of the adventure, and conversation was wide-ranging and easy during the whole excursion.
Our base, Calella de Palafrugell, is a charming coastal town with whitewashed houses, small sandy coves and a relaxed atmosphere. Unlike the larger resorts I had in mind when I first heard of the trip, it has retained an authentic feel, with its fishing heritage and quiet streets - not a German or British sunbather in sight (well, nearly none).
But what makes these trips so enjoyable is the leaders, Misha and Tatiana. They clearly care that everyone involved enjoys their time and feels supported. Nothing was too much trouble when anyone had requests, and everything was very clearly communicated at all times.
If you enjoy coastal walking, Mediterranean cuisine and charming coves, villages and towns, I’d recommend you grab a spot on this trip next time it runs!
